Hurricane Irene, Day 1: Surf Report

It’s been a busy few days around here. Hurricane Irene came through around 5:30 a.m. Friday. It was not  much of anything to speak about. Some light winds in the 25-30 mph range. We had some outer band showers up until around 9 a.m. and then it all dissipated. This is when the fun begins. The storm passed roughly 200 miles off the coast. Daytona Beach buoys were reading 30ft. and St. Augustine buoys were around 17 ft. What good is this you ask?

Huge surf.. Double overhead to some outside triple sets at one point in time. Got some friends together and headed for the beach with all the boards. I think we were in the small percentage of people paddling out. Maybe 10 out of the 1000’s that were watching the storm roll through. So in the water and paddle paddle paddle for roughly 45 minutes of non stop getting my ass handed to me I made it out to the 3rd set. I caught a couple of huge double oh and also got pummeled by many more. I was worn out to the bone so decided to head in grab a few waves in second set and then take it to the beach. By the time I hit the sand I had drifted roughly 2 miles South down the beach. First thoughts in my head were damn long walk home in knee high water. Fresh water rinse and time for some beers and grub.

Courtesy of

 *Photo taken is not of me, I was in this area though of 8th and 10th…  M.E. tried taking some photos later on that day but from the beach you couldn’t see 3rd set…

Got back to the marina and grilled out some insane homemade burgers courtesy of my honey. Continued to polish off two cases of beer and one bottle of Ron Brugal rum. It’s 4a.m. And time to crash out. Gotta get up early for dawn patrol tomorrow.



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