Secret Spot

I am finally back where I belong.  In the out islands tucked up in one of my favorite bays surfing incredible waves all day long.  The past few days have been perfect around here. I have been the only person out surfing perfect left chest to head high waves all day.  

Finally today two locals from the island showed up with boards.  I couldn’t believe it when they paddled out.  They were super surprised to see me out there just as I was of them.  They were both totally stoked I was there and took me in as part of the crew immediately.  I was shocked to say the least.  We sat in the lineup for hours together taking turns one after the other catching incredible waves.  

Other than the surfing its been the usual workout, eat, read, nap routine around here. 


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